This is probably the most advanced recipe in my blog, it's one of my favorites because I made it during the Charcuterie portion of the CMC exam.

Ballotine of Duck

Preparing ballotines is a challenging garde manger technique. It requires a mastery in fabrication, forcemeat preparation, seasoning, garnishing and stock preparation (if poaching a galantine) as well as sanitation.

Cold, Cold, Cold!

This recipe is an advanced preparation; it's challenging & takes  practice, & it is a lot of fun. 


I actually prepared this during the charcuterie day during the CMC exam. I prepared two-one wrapped in cheesecloth and poached in duck stock & a second wrapped in plastic wrap. When I sliced the ballotine to serve to the evaluators the next day, I served the one in cheesecloth (much of the flavor had infused into the poaching liquid)-I earned an 80; when the evaluators left I sliced & tasted a piece wrapped in plastic & it was exceptional. I had been too intimidated to offer them a second taste from the better ballotine!

The exam is so incredibly physiological...

Prep Time: 3 hours

Cooking Time: 5 hours


Ingredients

 Yield: 10 portions                                       

 1 ea                 Whole duck (3 lb Long Island w gizzards)

8 oz                 Duck leg & thigh meat, cleaned & diced from the whole duck

2 oz                 Pork fatback, cubed

2 oz                 Pork butt, cubed

1/8 tsp.           TCM, (optional)

2 tsp.               Salt

2 Tbsp            Herbs, chopped (parsely, chives, tarragon)

1 tsp                Poultry seasoning/Pate spice

1 Tbsp             Salt

1 tsp                 Black pepper



1/2 oz              Butter

3 Tbsp            Onions, minced

1 clove            Garlic, minced

3 oz                 Sherry wine

1 each              Egg

2 oz                  Heavy cream

1 tsp                 Duck glace (made by simmering stock)


Garnish:

3 oz                 Smoked ham/smoked tongue, small dice

3 oz                 Truffle peelings

3 oz                CA Bakers Fruit Medley/ dried apricots, quartered & plumped in white wine or brandy

3 oz                 Pistachio Nuts, blanched & peeled; chopped

Duck liver, heart and stomach may be poached, cooled and diced-added to garnish




How to prepare the duck ballotine

Step 1 Fabricating the duck

Slice down the back of the duck with a boning knife, peel the skin from the duck on both sides until you reach the wings and legs. Don't tear/cut the skin.

Cut off the tip of the wing and leg-reserve for stock. Pull the skin over the wings and over the thigh/leg carefully to avoid tearing the skin. Continue over the breast until the entire skin is removed. Place onto a tray over plastic wrap, place into the freezer to firm the fat on the skin.


Sweat onion and garlic in butter, deglaze with sherry and cool.

Carefully cut off the breasts, take off the tenders, leg and thigh meat; place in a bowl with fat back, pork butt, seasonings-keep cold to grind for forcemeat.



Flatten the breast to about 1/8th inch thick (as even as possible). Season and marinate for several hours in the refrigerator. 


Roast the duck bones, then place the browned bones into 2 qts chicken stock with roasted mirepoix and sachet d' eptices; simmer for 3 hours, being careful to skim fat and impurities. 

Strain, reduce to a glace (about 1/2 cup) and cool.

Step 2  Preparing the forcemeat

Add cooled sweated shallots and garlic to the diced meats. Grind the marinated meat into a cold bowl, add the egg and cream over ice and incorporate completely. I like this dried, fruit blend called ‘CA Bakers Fruit Medley'. I macerate the fruit in brandy for about 2 hours before adding to the duck and pork forcemeat.Mix well and fold in garnish. Poach a sample and adjust seasoning and consistency.

Step 3        Assembling the ballotine

To assemble, fill a disposable pastry bag with forcemeat and pipe out a large log (around 2 inches in diameter). Wrap and freeze for about an hour so it’s easier to assemble. During that time slice off as much of the fat from the slightly frozen skin as possible.

Place the skin on a sheet of plastic wrap.


Lay the marinated, flattened duck breast onto plastic wrap and then unwrap the forcemeat log piped earlier and lay that in the center of the duck breast. Wrap the duck breast around the forcemeat, overlap so there is at least an inch overlap. Unwrap and place the duck breast wrapped forcemeat onto the skin, wrap the skin around the breast.

The duck skin shrinks!



Wrap the final product in cheesecloth (no plastic) and poach in the duck stock at 150 °F until cooked. I cook duck ballotine to 140 °F since I will cook it again to get the beautiful browned skin. Cool the ballotine, unwrap and wipe off all of the gelatine and moisture, then tie and brown on a rack in the oven at 350 °F until golden brown.

Slice to serve.


By Tom Griffiths • October 28, 2026
Chef Tom's Cooking Class Minute-Week 13 What the Heck Is Bone Broth? What’s your take on bone broth? Is it a new name for an old culinary tradition, or do you prepare yours differently? It's soup season! I use stock as the foundation for most of my soups. I’m clear on what a stock is, but what exactly is bone broth? I’m not totally sure where the culinary definition ends and the marketing begins. Broths seem to be healthy for us; they can provide protein, gelatin, collagen, electrolytes and amino acids, depending on the ingredients and how they’re prepared. The nutritional value varies, but they can help with hydration and protein intake. I’ve traveled throughout Asia & Europe to learn about stocks, broths and soups-I didn't find much information on bone broths. I even visited Chef Marco Canora, bone broth expert to discuss the recipes & techniques he uses to prepare his delicious Brodo bone broths at his restaurant Hearth in NYC. I think of bone broth as a traditional broth, similar to French petite marmite, Italian brodo, or the rich broths used as the foundation for Japanese ramen. One thing I know for sure: bone broth is not simply a collection of leftover meat and vegetable scraps you’ve saved in the freezer and boiled together when you feel like it! Chef Tom’s Tips: What’s the Difference? Stock: Traditionally prepared with bones, aromatics, seasonings & water. Broth: Prepared with meaty bones, aromatics, seasonings & water. Cooking time depends on the bones and the type of stock you’re making. Fish stock, or fumet, needs only about 30–40 minutes. Chicken stock generally simmers for 3–4 hours. White beef stock may take 5–6 hours. A few important points: I prefer to keep stock at a gentle simmer rather than a rolling boil. Some chefs bring the stock to a boil, strain and rinse the bones, and then start again with fresh water. I prefer not to use this method because I feel we may lose some flavor in the process. Carefully skim fat and impurities from the surface as the stock simmers. This helps produce a cleaner, clearer stock. Remember, stocks are recipes, too. Use consistent measurements so you can standardize your results and reproduce the same quality every time. Generally very little salt is added since stocks are used for a variety of cooking recipes. I also like to experiment with ingredients that add flavor and acidity, such as tomatoes and leeks. Mushrooms, ginger, lemongrass, saffron, star anise and Parmesan cheese rinds can all add another dimension to a broth. Each ingredient brings something different to the pot, so consider the flavor you want in the finished product.  Check out my new Soup e-cookbook, 'From the Pot to the Table' only $9.95! Order your copy here: https://www.globalcuisineconsulting.com/.../from-the-pot...
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Chef Tom’s Cooking Class Minute – 𝐖𝐞𝐞𝐤 12 𝐌𝐨𝐢𝐬𝐭-𝐇𝐞𝐚𝐭 𝐂𝐨𝐨𝐤𝐢𝐧𝐠: 𝐁𝐞𝐞𝐫 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐚 𝐆𝐨𝐨𝐝 𝐁𝐫𝐚𝐢𝐬𝐞 I like beer! And of course, beer is good for more than drinking! It adds a wonderful depth of flavor to soups, stews and braised meats. The trick is choosing the right beer for the dish. A light lager, a malty brown ale and a dark stout each bring something different to the dish. And no, you don't need to use your most expensive bottle to make a good stew! I was reminiscing about International Cuisine class at the Culinary Institute of America. Chef Bruno Ehlmer was my instructor. I still remember the delicious foods we made in class; goulash soup, coulibiac, paella and carbonnade à la flamande, the traditional Flemish beef & onion stew made with dark beer. These were my favorites. There are several local breweries in town, so I recently stopped by to pick up a Belgian-style brown beer for my beer-braised chicken stew with onions. I use local, seasonal ingredients whenever I can, & this seemed like a good excuse to visit a brewery and bring a little Belgian inspiration into my kitchen. I had a fantastic Octoberfest in my research that day… hahaha 𝐀 𝐅𝐞𝐰 𝐓𝐢𝐩𝐬 𝐟𝐨𝐫 𝐚 𝐩𝐫𝐨𝐩𝐞𝐫 𝐁𝐫𝐚𝐢𝐬𝐞 𝐋𝐨𝐰 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐬𝐥𝐨𝐰 cook it slowly in a flavorful, fairly thick gravy. In my experience, cooking at too high a temperature or in a thin liquid leaves the meat stringy instead of tender & succulent. 𝐁𝐮𝐢𝐥𝐝 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐟𝐥𝐚𝐯𝐨𝐫 𝐟𝐢𝐫𝐬𝐭 dredge the seasoned meat in sifted flour & brown it in clarified butter with sliced onions. This dish is flavored with mustard, vinegar, a little brown sugar & thickened with bread. 𝐋𝐞𝐭 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐨𝐯𝐞𝐧 𝐝𝐨 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐰𝐨𝐫𝐤 braise or stew in a covered pot in the oven. I like Le Creuset pots & pans. The heat is more even, and there is less chance of scorching the bottom of the pan. Uncover the pan for the final 30 minutes so the sauce can reduce and form a delicious glaze over the meat. 𝐂𝐡𝐨𝐨𝐬𝐞 𝐲𝐨𝐮𝐫 𝐜𝐡𝐢𝐜𝐤𝐞𝐧. I like Bell & Evans chicken thighs for this method. I often leave the skin on for flavor and brown it well before braising. I leave the bones in, but boneless thighs are perfectly fine. You can even cut them into bite-sized pieces for easier serving. The skin can be left on the plate or eaten, depending on your preference. Serve the stew with buttered noodles or boiled potatoes. Both are excellent for soaking up the gravy. One last tip: Don't assume that any beer will give you the same result. Think about how the bitterness, maltiness or roasted flavors will work with the meat & sauce. What beer do you like to cook with?
By Tom Griffiths • October 22, 2026
In my opinion, a great broth begins with a properly prepared stock. Homemade stock is one of the fundamentals I encourage every cook to learn. It is quite simple to prepare but takes some time, but much of that time is hands-off, and the results are worth the effort. I understand that there are plenty of stock 'products' on the market-bases, bouillon cubes, shelf stable boxes etc... these are simply not good. My approach is straightforward: start with good ingredients and give them the time they need. Fish stock requires only about 30–40 minutes, while chicken stock generally takes three to four hours. Beef stocks can take considerably longer, depending on the bones and the result you want. I prefer a gentle simmer rather than a rolling boil. It helps keep the stock clear, and careful skimming and proper straining make a difference in the finished product. There is plenty of room to experiment, too. Mushrooms, ginger, lemongrass, herbs, spices and Parmesan rinds can add their own character to a broth.
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