One of the more challenging classical seafood dishes  I know of requires fabricating a whole fish in to perfectly even darnes, trussing the darnes and then gently poaching in a Court Bouillon.
While the darnes are still quite hot, the pin bones need to be pulled (they are on a diagonal), the butcher twine needs to be cut away, the skin needs to be peeled and the seafood must be plated without breaking... and served piping hot with Sauce Hollandaise & boiled, tourneed potatoes.  I repeatedly practiced this dish for the CMC exam with a whole salmon... quite the challenge!

Darne of Salmon   

Fabricating seafood is a tremendous amount of work, requiring experience, proper technique, patience & the correct tools. One of my responsibilites at my first professional cooking jobs was 'fish butcher'. I loved it and remember the fins, bones, gills etc... constantly pricking my fingers when I fabricated a large variety of seafood. Cuts from fish are no fun, they get infected and take a very long time to heal!

These days I wear thick gloves for protection & use strong shears, tweezers, boning knives and a small cleaver to make the job more manageable.

I believe most consumers refer to the thick, cross cut (skin on and with bones) of whole fish as a steak. Chefs call this cut a darne! I rarely see darnes of seafood at national grocery stores but often see this cut at Asian markets.

 There is a small portion of the back bone in the cut which holds he fish together nicely but trussing with butcher's twine is the best way to hold the darne together.


I like to poach the darnes although it's perfectly delicious sautéed or grilled.


These pictures are taken at an outdoor food market in Malaysia. There are many different types of seafood of all shapes and sizes-freshly caught daily.

 

Poached Darne of Salmon

Prep Time: 10 min

Cooking Time: 20 min

Yield: 4 portions


Ingredients                                          

4 ea.            Seafood 'steaks'/darnes (salmon, striped bass, cod)

4 Cups       Water

1 Cup           Vinegar (red wine/cider)     

1 Cup           Mirepoix, sliced thin                

1  Tbsp        Kosher Salt                                       

12 ea            Black peppercorns

1 ea              Lemon, sliced thinly

3 ea.            Green onions, sliced thinly 

3 Tbsp       Bay leaves



How to Prepare Poached Darne of Salmon

Step 1

Have your seafood butcher fabricate the seafood carefully to eliminate all scales, grills, fins and blood.

Also request the portions are all the same in size, weight and appearance. Since fish have much different thickness at the tail end than in the middle, the portions may be dramatically different. (and will cook differently).



Step 2 Preparing Court Bouillon

Place the water, mirepoix, lemon slices, vinegar, bay leaves, herbs, seasonings into the pan you will poach the fish in and bring to a boil; simmer for 5 minutes. You can strain if you like.







Place the darnes into the hot court bouillon, making certain the darnes are fully submerged. Allow the fish to poach gently for about 10 minutes at 165 ° F, until the darnes reach an internal temperature of 145° F. Do not boil!







Step 3 

Place the cooked darnes on to a plate, cut the strings off-discard. Carefully trim the skin, blood line and bones from the darnes. You may choose to return the salmon in to the hot court bouillon for a minute or so to reheat after trimming-be careful and use a perforated spatula to avoid breaking the fish.




By Tom Griffiths October 31, 2025
Every culture seems to have its own way of celebrating squash. Years ago, when I was invited to assist the amazing Puerto Rican Chef Alfredo Ayala at Worlds of Flavor at the CIA San Antonio campus. I spent the morning carefully preparing diced pumpkin and other mise en place for Puerto Rican Sofrito, Adobo & Habichuelas Guisadas (Bean Soup) Chef Ayala arrived in the kitchen with a paper bag of Ají dulce, (Rocotillo peppers) from Puerto Rico and the other Latin chefs went wild! When he came to greet me he tossed all of my pumpkin dice into the garbage, poured a few cups of rice onto the table and discussed how to peel garlic. He explained he had eaten this same, exact rice dish every day of his life and shared the pumpkin I had prepared was for Halloween; he needed butternut squash. I had told the procurement chef the same thing earlier but decided to keep that to myself… an absolutely amazing experience learning to cook pumpkin and rice with Chef Ayala, a true master!
By Tom Griffiths October 30, 2025
Fines Herbes: Freshness, Balance, and History Art and Science of Growing & Cooking with 'Fines Herbs'
By Tom Griffiths October 21, 2025
I was very fortunate to spend several months on a cruise ship traveling around Alaska and Canada. I was able to learn how fisherman caught salmon and the native Alaskan people canned salmon. There are five types of salmon, the guides loved to share the 'salmon fingers trick'. King salmon is considered the most flavorful salmon with a fatty, buttery flavor. (This is the longer, middle finger) Coho or Silver salmon is firmer with a milder flavor (ring finger for silver); Sockeye salmon (pointer finger) is lean and has a darker red color. Pink salmon (pinky finger) is most common and used by Alaskan people for canning and Chum (thumb) salmon is mild and seems to be the least popular. I prefer farm raised, Atlantic salmon for forcemeats due to the milder flavor and fatty texture. I spent a week fishing for halibut in Alaska and we rigged up the belly of a chum salmon for bait... it worked really well!
By Tom Griffiths October 17, 2025
My mother liked to cook a variety of fritters, with leftover holiday ham or turkey but in the summer she prepared delicious squash flower or corn fritters which were more like savory pancakes and inspired this recipe.
By Tom Griffiths October 17, 2025
Beyond Pesto: The Art and Science of Growing & Cooking with Herbs 
By Tom Griffiths October 8, 2025
I've been growing figs for more than 50 years! In fact, I have about a dozen fig trees in my yard. Several are from cuttings propagated from trees at my parent's home and one fig tree is from a cutting of a fig tree in Monticello! I like to think Thomas Jefferson and I enjoy delicious figs from the same tree...
By Tom Griffiths October 8, 2025
I liked to begin each class day of Skills Development class at the CIA with a quote. One of my favorites went something like this, 'You can walk to the corn fields but you must run back to the kitchen'. Basically it speaks to the sugars in sweet quickly converting to starch when it's harvested. We Chefs know a thing or two about food chemistry...
image of traditional paella
By Tom Griffiths August 13, 2025
More and more the loss of technique and understanding of traditional ingredients is destroying the soul of American kitchens. But there is hope.
By Tom Griffiths July 17, 2025
I agreed to be the Chef Advisor for the Gourmet Society at the CIA, an amazing honor to work with some of the best and brightest students. We planned to demonstrate preparing pesto with a mortar and pestle and also with a food processor-then evaluate them both side by side. We all suspected that the food processor would aerate the pesto, possibly the heat generated would be a problem- One student brought in a molcajete, the traditional mortar from Mexico, made from volcanic rock used for grinding spices, making salsas, moles, etc... I'm not sure this was the preferred mortar and pestle to use, these days I often use a marble mortar and pestle and make small batches. The 'mortar and pestle' pesto was much more delicious than the food processor version at the CIA that day.
By Tom Griffiths July 17, 2025
I was born to sauté... I remember thinking this and smiling when I finally made my way up in the kitchen brigade to the Saucier spot. I loved the pulse of the kitchen, working the saute station with a dozen sauté pans on the flat top, delicious stocks and mother sauces held hot in the steam table and carefully prepared mise en place so I could make delicious meals for the customers... one order or two at the time. Everything was cooked with love and respect.