My culantro plant has gotten full & bushy in the warm, sunny greenhouse. I couldn't wait to make a batch of culantro sofrito for beans, rice, eggs and just spooning onto everything to give winter a little 'summer' spice! Sofrito is a very flavorful blend of garlic, onions, peppers, tomato, culantro, cilantro, oregano and a little vinegar chopped or pureed and seasoned to taste. I think every chef has their own recipe for sofrito. It's simply heated in oil and added to a variety of dishes to add amazing flavor.
Culantro Sofrito
I was excited to purchase some exotic herbs at a Vietnamese plant stand near Philly one summer day. It turned out that one was a beefsteak plant (turned out to be shiso), another thai baby eggplant, floating enhydra, minari (a spicy, leafy green parsley/celery like herb) and Vietnamese culantro! I'd only used culantro a few times in my career, it's challenging to find but I had researched and was a fan! My sofrito recipe is inspired by the famous Puerto Rican chef Alfredo Ayala. I met and assisted him in preparing for his demo at the CIA San Antonio many years ago. To this day I remember his passion and respect for ingredients such as the sweet peppers of Puerto Rico, simple garlic, rice and culantro when he taught me to prepare sofrito. I like to keep my recipe simple and flexible so I can use it for a variety of dishes, if you like extra garlic or more spice... just add a little more garlic or add some hot peppers, etc...
Sofrito
Prep Time: 20 min
Blending Time: 15 min
Yield: 4 portions
Ingredients
8 ea Garlic, peeled
2 Cups Spanish onions, peeled and rough chopped
1 Cup Tomatoes, seeded and rough chopped
1 Cup Red bell peppers, split, seeded and rough chopped
1 Cup Green bell peppers, split, seeded and rough chopped
1 Cup Culantro, fresh leaves, washed
2 Cups Cilantro, fresh leaves and stems, washed
4 Tbsp Oregano, fresh leaves
2 oz Vinegar, white
tt Kosher Salt
tt Crushed Black Pepper
How to Prepare Sofrito
Step 1
Simply blend or chop all of the ingredients in a food processor or blender, season to taste.
Scrape down the sides to avoid chunks.
Step 2
Scrape down the sides to avoid large chunks.
Step 3
Season to taste, label and store in tightly sealed containers/ freeze for future use.
Every culture seems to have its own way of celebrating squash. Years ago, when I was invited to assist the amazing Puerto Rican Chef Alfredo Ayala at Worlds of Flavor at the CIA San Antonio campus. I spent the morning carefully preparing diced pumpkin and other mise en place for Puerto Rican Sofrito, Adobo & Habichuelas Guisadas (Bean Soup) Chef Ayala arrived in the kitchen with a paper bag of Ají dulce, (Rocotillo peppers) from Puerto Rico and the other Latin chefs went wild! When he came to greet me he tossed all of my pumpkin dice into the garbage, poured a few cups of rice onto the table and discussed how to peel garlic. He explained he had eaten this same, exact rice dish every day of his life and shared the pumpkin I had prepared was for Halloween; he needed butternut squash. I had told the procurement chef the same thing earlier but decided to keep that to myself… an absolutely amazing experience learning to cook pumpkin and rice with Chef Ayala, a true master!
Fines Herbes: Freshness, Balance, and History Art and Science of Growing & Cooking with 'Fines Herbs'
I was very fortunate to spend several months on a cruise ship traveling around Alaska and Canada. I was able to learn how fisherman caught salmon and the native Alaskan people canned salmon. There are five types of salmon, the guides loved to share the 'salmon fingers trick'. King salmon is considered the most flavorful salmon with a fatty, buttery flavor. (This is the longer, middle finger) Coho or Silver salmon is firmer with a milder flavor (ring finger for silver); Sockeye salmon (pointer finger) is lean and has a darker red color. Pink salmon (pinky finger) is most common and used by Alaskan people for canning and Chum (thumb) salmon is mild and seems to be the least popular. I prefer farm raised, Atlantic salmon for forcemeats due to the milder flavor and fatty texture. I spent a week fishing for halibut in Alaska and we rigged up the belly of a chum salmon for bait... it worked really well!
My mother liked to cook a variety of fritters, with leftover holiday ham or turkey but in the summer she prepared delicious squash flower or corn fritters which were more like savory pancakes and inspired this recipe.
Beyond Pesto: The Art and Science of Growing & Cooking with Herbs
I've been growing figs for more than 50 years! In fact, I have about a dozen fig trees in my yard. Several are from cuttings propagated from trees at my parent's home and one fig tree is from a cutting of a fig tree in Monticello! I like to think Thomas Jefferson and I enjoy delicious figs from the same tree...
I liked to begin each class day of Skills Development class at the CIA with a quote. One of my favorites went something like this, 'You can walk to the corn fields but you must run back to the kitchen'. Basically it speaks to the sugars in sweet quickly converting to starch when it's harvested. We Chefs know a thing or two about food chemistry...
More and more the loss of technique and understanding of traditional ingredients is destroying the soul of American kitchens. But there is hope.
I agreed to be the Chef Advisor for the Gourmet Society at the CIA, an amazing honor to work with some of the best and brightest students. We planned to demonstrate preparing pesto with a mortar and pestle and also with a food processor-then evaluate them both side by side. We all suspected that the food processor would aerate the pesto, possibly the heat generated would be a problem- One student brought in a molcajete, the traditional mortar from Mexico, made from volcanic rock used for grinding spices, making salsas, moles, etc... I'm not sure this was the preferred mortar and pestle to use, these days I often use a marble mortar and pestle and make small batches. The 'mortar and pestle' pesto was much more delicious than the food processor version at the CIA that day.
I was born to sauté... I remember thinking this and smiling when I finally made my way up in the kitchen brigade to the Saucier spot. I loved the pulse of the kitchen, working the saute station with a dozen sauté pans on the flat top, delicious stocks and mother sauces held hot in the steam table and carefully prepared mise en place so I could make delicious meals for the customers... one order or two at the time. Everything was cooked with love and respect.