Beyond Pesto: The Art and Science of Growing & Cooking with Herbs
As a professional chef, I cook with herbs and seasonings daily. As a consultant, I research gastronomy to better understand cultures and how ingredients are used. I study how herbs and spices are grown, handled, blended, and used in authentic global dishes. Recently, I spent several months in the Mediterranean learning about herbs and spices of Turkey, Spain, Italy, France, Greece, and Portugal.
I understand how many herbs and spices are used and which ingredients pair well with which herbs. For example, dill goes with salmon or cucumbers, and rosemary is delicious with lamb. I’ve learned there is quite a bit more to understand when cooking with herbs and spices and wish to share these findings.
I plan to publish several blogs on herbs and spices over the next few weeks, beginning with growing and cooking with fresh basil.
Basil: A Herb That Demands Respect
Basil is a popular herb used in many recipes—one that demands respect. It’s delicate yet aromatic, familiar yet nuanced. There are more than 50 varieties of basil with different flavors, colors, and leaf sizes.
Basil is often treated like a garnish, but when grown and handled with purpose, it can define a dish (good or bad!). Basil is so much more than an earthy spice in tomato sauce or an appealing garnish on a Caprese salad.
As chefs, we use fresh or dry basil almost reflexively—in pestos, salads, marinades, garnishes, and sauces—but how often do we really think about where it comes from and how its cultivation impacts its flavor, aroma, and texture?
In my research, I’ve grown basil in nearly every way imaginable: in-ground beds, my greenhouse, cold frames, pots, and vertical systems. And I’ve learned something important along the way—how basil is grown matters as much as how it’s handled in the kitchen.
Terroir Matters: How and Where Basil Grows Shapes Its Flavor
In-ground basil develops the most complex flavor. The mineral-rich soil, sun, and coastal breezes of Liguria, Italy—famously showcased in Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy—create the benchmark in basil.
Here in New Jersey, I prepare a soil mix with compost, potting soil, perlite, and sand for a loamy, well-draining soil. I also use black netting to avoid full sun in the summer. When I prepare my favorite pesto recipe the traditional way with a mortar and pestle, using Genovese basil from my garden, I understand why terroir matters. It is life-changing.
Other growing methods:
Greenhouse basil offers consistency and tender leaves and is a little milder. I move the plants around to find microclimates in the greenhouse to avoid stressing the plants and stay diligent with pests such as aphids.
Potted basil is similar to greenhouse basil—it’s perfect for small kitchens, easy to manage, and fresh, but generally less intense. Ideal for restaurants with gardens.
Vertical farm basil is efficient and clean but tends to have the mildest flavor of all due to lack of natural stress. Vertical farming shows great potential to support sustainability and feed people.
Heat, Sun, and the Bitter Truth
Recently, I harvested Genovese basil from my garden for pesto—something I’ve done for years. But this time, the leaves were very bitter and dark in color. After some research and testing, I traced it back to excessive heat and sun exposure. Under these conditions, basil becomes stressed, loses volatile oils, and can develop bitterness and tougher textures. It becomes inedible.
Older, flowering basil begins to lose flavor. The seeds are edible and are sometimes used to prepare teas or tonics, infuse oils or vinegars, or garnish salads and appetizers.
I extend the life of these plants by deadheading the seeds and pruning the leaves for pesto to encourage new, tender leaf growth. I often repot and collect the seeds for new plants. I have several thriving basil plants that are three years old.
Key takeaway: Basil thrives in warmth, but too much direct sun—especially in mid-summer—can be its enemy. A bit of afternoon shade can make the difference between delicious, tender leaves and a bitter pesto disappointment.
I now create mini climates in my garden, cold frames, and greenhouse, moving the basil to different spots depending on the season—and my basil is thriving and delicious.
Fresh vs. Dried Basil
Fresh basil delivers brightness, fragrance, and pleasant volatile oils that hit the palate (and nostrils) immediately. It’s ideal for finishing dishes like pizzas and tomato salads, for pestos, and for any application where aroma matters.
Dried basil, on the other hand, offers stability and convenience—but at a cost. Its flavor is muted, earthier, and less complex. It’s best for long-simmered dishes like tomato-based sauces, soups, or stews so the flavor can slowly develop.
For kitchens that rely on dried herbs, how you dry basil matters:
Air drying or low-temp dehydrators preserve more aroma than high heat.
Once dried, store away from light and air to protect its character.
I prefer freezing whole leaves and crumbling them at the time of use to keep more of the aromatic compounds intact.
Technique Matters: Mortar vs. Food Processor
Years ago, the Gourmet Society at The Culinary Institute of America held a side-by-side pesto demonstration: one batch with a traditional mortar and pestle, another in a food processor.
The results were clear. The mortar-and-pestle pesto was brighter, more aromatic, with a layered flavor and rustic texture. Crushing basil gently releases its essential oils without overheating them. In contrast, the food processor introduced heat and air, dulling both flavor and color.
Pro tip: For chefs looking to showcase basil at its best, traditional technique still wins.
Bringing It Back to Culinary Discipline
Culinary Discipline: Respect the Ingredients
Basil deserves more than a quick chop for a salad or a sprinkle in tomato sauce. Its terroir and technique determine its flavor. Delicate basil leaves oxidize quickly in the refrigerator.
Best storage practices:
Keep at room temperature with the stems in a jar of water.
If refrigerating, wrap stems in a moist towel and place in a zip-lock bag in the least cold part of the fridge.
Better yet, grow basil in pots and harvest as needed.
Like all ingredients, by handling basil thoughtfully and preparing it with care, we give basil the respect it’s earned—and elevate every plate it touches.
If your operation wants to rethink how it sources and uses fresh herbs to improve flavor, consistency, and cost control, I can help you get there.
Let’s start with the basil.
I recently volunteered to prepare vegetable paella for a church Bible group potluck. I was very excited to develop a delicious, new paella recipe and spent time preparing fresh vegetable stock with flavors of the Mediterranean. I always prepare vegetable and fish stocks fresh, as I intend to use them. I’m not a fan of bases or frozen stocks but I sometimes add a small amount of quality base to my stocks. A vegetable stock with mirepoix, cabbage, mushrooms makes sense in certain applications, for certain recipes—but why would we use a mushroom or cabbage-forward stock in a paella? It doesn’t make culinary sense. Paella is a Mediterranean dish originating in the Valencia region of Spain as a humble meal cooked on an open fire. I’ve enjoyed wonderful paella meals in Valencia prepared with water-not stock, prepared with rabbit, snails and local beans. While traveling through Spain this spring I researched and sampled many styles of paella… no mushrooms, no carrots, no celery and no cabbage.
I still remember cooking breakfast burritos with my son Daniel, for volunteer workers at church events—simple, hearty, and made to fuel a long day of service. The workers were always so appreciative. Years later, I served a crowd favorite, nicknamed “The Bacon-ator,” a breakfast superstar inspired by the over-the-top spirit of fast-food indulgence. We had a popular food booth at the local country fair, where we cooked hundreds of breakfast burritos each day-stuffed with Mexican cheeses, extra bacon, fluffy scrambled eggs, and fresh salsa—nothing pre-made, nothing rushed. Every burrito was warm, fresh, and full of flavor. When food is made with love, even the most straightforward breakfast is memorable.
Chefs often share a bond that transcends politics, religion, and borders. While working in Saudi Arabia with a diverse group of chefs, I experienced this firsthand on my final day. To mark the occasion, they prepared special dishes representing their home countries—a generous feast rooted in tradition and pride. At the center of the table was a beautiful tray of stuffed peppers, zucchini, cabbages, squash, and other vegetables, each prepared with care and respect. As we shared the meal, the chefs beamed with pride, and the room filled with a sense of genuine camaraderie. It was a powerful reminder that food remains one of the most universal languages we have.
I remember a chef teaching me to carefully slice the center seeds from a zucchini and then prepare beautiful dices for a ratatouilli. The seeds and center area get soft and mushy before the outer 'meaty' section of the squash cooks.
Lobster macaroni and cheese is my all time favorite version of Mac and Cheese... I make it by preparing a classic lobster sauce, (flambé and all) and blending it with Béchamel sauce, macaroni and sweet, tender chunks of freshly poached lobster. Macaroni and cheese with pancetta
Culinary Basics: The Art of preparing Stocks
Paella is a Mediterranean dish originating in the Valencia region of Spain. It is a humble meal, originally cooked on an open fire. I’ve enjoyed many wonderful paella meals in Spain. In Valencia I had a local paella with rabbit, snails and local beans. Short-grained rice is always used to prepare Paella, there are several great Spanish varieties like Bomba and Calasparra , prized for absorbing the delicious, flavorful stock and flavors of the ingredients without getting mushy. This is important for creating the dish's signature, crusty bottom layer called the socarrat. Paella is all about the rice!
I still remember cooking breakfast burritos with my son Daniel, for volunteer workers at church events—simple, hearty, and made to fuel a long day of service. The workers were always so appreciative. Years later, I served a crowd favorite, nicknamed “The Bacon-ator,” a breakfast superstar inspired by the over-the-top spirit of fast-food indulgence. We had a popular food booth at the local country fair, where we cooked hundreds of breakfast burritos each day-stuffed with Mexican cheeses, extra bacon, fluffy scrambled eggs, and fresh salsa—nothing pre-made, nothing rushed. Every burrito was warm, fresh, and full of flavor. When food is made with love, even the most straightforward breakfast is memorable.
Beef Wellington is a restaurant classic! Chefs prepare whole tenderloins, wrapped in pastry as well as individually portioned Wellingtons. Culinary historians widely agree that Beef Wellington evolved from French preparations such as filet de bœuf en croûte, which paired beef tenderloin with mushrooms and pastry—techniques well established in French haute cuisine.
Oranges are fantastic in Baking & Pastry. I developed a delicious dessert for the CMC exam (Healthy Cooking) challenge featuring Orange Creamsicle Sorbet with Roasted, Candied Pineapple and Fruit Strudel... with plenty of guidance from the amazing CIA Pastry Instructors! Types of Oranges: There are several distinct varieties of oranges, each with unique characteristics and flavors. The most common type is the Navel orange , recognized for its seedless, sweet flesh and thick, easy-to-peel skin. Valencia oranges are another popular variety, primarily known for their juiciness and are often used for making orange juice. Other notable types include Blood oranges , which have a deep red interior and a distinct berry-like flavor, and Cara Cara oranges , characterized by their pinkish-red flesh and sweet taste. Additionally, Seville oranges , known for their bitterness, are mainly used in making marmalade and flavoring liqueurs.